The Daddo family on holiday in Tasmania. Picture: Supplied
FOR reasons I can’t fathom, Tassie still feels like a bit of a secret. It doesn’t make sense – the island state is easy to get to, easy to get around and the people are fantastic. Not just friendly, but funny and quirkily creative with true community spirit.
Whole towns work together to make their part of the state unique and memorable. Wait till you see the murals in Sheffield or the topiary in Railton.
Rugged, stunning, historic, bountiful – Tasmania may well be the true jewel of Australian tourism and it’s achievable.
I figured we could see the best of the state in a week-long road trip. Let’s be honest, it’s not that big. Wrong. Dumb. Moron. We met a couple in a camper who had been trundling about for 18 months and said they’d need at least that again to see everything.
The travelling Daddos gave ourselves a week, and made a decent fist of things: enough to be bitten by the beautifully magnificent devil that is Tasmania.
FIRST, GETTING THERE
As a former Port Melbourne resident, I’d seen the Spirit of Tasmania come and go daily. “One of these days, Daddo,” I’d say to myself. “You’re going to get on that thing with your brood and bounce around your cabin all the way to the Apple Isle.”
The Daddos were ‘gobsmacked’ by the scenery on a Tasman Island Cruise. Picture: Tourism Tasmania/Kathryn LeahySource:SuppliedSupplied
There was no bouncing on this voyage, but the food was good, the cabin clean and we felt like we were going on an overseas cruise. It’s an easy option that’ll beat the luggage restrictions you’ll encounter from the airlines flying to Tasmania, so you can pack everything – golf clubs, fishing rods, camping gear, thermals, parkas, snow shoes – best to be ready for anything.
We rolled off the Spirit of Tasmania, into Devonport, at 6am. The early bird and all that, spoilt for choice and possibility we put our heads together and came up with “coffee”.
And, if we’re going to do this properly, we should get a camper. Who wants to stay in motels when you can drive your house around?
Nigel at Apollo was beyond helpful in getting us ready for the three-hour drive due south to Hobart (see http://ift.tt/1muz0YI).
The drive gave us the chance to do a bit of homework on what we might do, too. But first, we had to stop in Promised Land. It’s not like you can go through a town with a name like that and not wonder if they’re taking the mickey. They’re not. It’s stunning and fun and an instaworthy introduction to the great state of Tasmania. It’s also the location of Tasmazia, a quaint and definitely quirky place with challenging hedge mazes and dad jokes at all the dead ends. It’s embarrassing how funny they are.
See tasmazia.com.au
HOBART
Did we spend too long in Hobart? In retrospect, probably, but it’s the problem of being a city with an awful lot to offer. Realistically, you could stay a whole week in Hobart and strike out from there and still not see everything.
MONA, Hobart. Picture: Tourism Tasmania & Rob BurnettSource:SuppliedSupplied
MONA
MONA’s off the charts. Great art, very cheeky sense of humour that’s evident from the moment you pull up in the carpark. Yes, of course I was tempted to park in “God’s parking spot”. We could have got the cruise from Hobart, would definitely do that next time. Brilliant, eclectic artworks, absolute sensory overload for everyone.
Big tip: Half a day may not be enough.
See mona.net.au
Tasman Island Cruise in Hobart. Picture: Tourism Tasmania & Kathryn LeahySource:SuppliedSupplied
TASMAN ISLAND CRUISE
This three-hour cruise, which leaves from Port Arthur and travels around Tasman Island to Eaglehawk Neck, offers gobsmacking views of the coastline including sheer cliffs, caves, seals, birds and waterfalls. The kids described it as a three-hour roller-coaster and the best bit as taking the boat in and out of caves.
See tasmancruises.com.au
PORT ARTHUR
A must-see, as simple as that. Port Arthur has a fascinating place in Australia’s history – convict and otherwise. It’s an often brutal story in a challenging, yet beautiful setting. You can self-guide or join a group. For the best stories, and there’s a stack of them, get a guide.
Big tip: On the way to Port Arthur, turn at Pirates Bay Drive for Eaglehawk Neck to see the view of Pirate Bay. It’s epic, and the coffee from the renovated vintage caravan turned coffee shop is great. Called Cubed, they’ve set up a carpet, cushions and seating with telescope to get the most out of the view.
Surf tip: If it’s on, and you’ll have to ask the bloke at the petrol station in Nubeena, check out Shipsterns Bluff off Cape Raul. Possibly Australia’s most infamous wave, it’s definitely worth a rubberneck. Not working the day we were there, but two days later …
Salamanca Market in Hobart with a snow-capped Mt Wellington in the background.Source:News Corp Australia
SALAMANCA MARKETS
Held every Saturday and an absolute Hobart staple. Great food, coffee and Made in Tasmania bits and pieces, everything from Huon pine chopping blocks to alpaca throw rugs.
Cash tip: Hit the ATM early. Unbelievably, the two we tried had run out of folding stuff.
Eating tip: Sushi Train, Franklin Wharf. The food was beautiful and the best bit for the kids was the toilets, “like being on a real train”.
WHERE TO CAMP YOUR CAMPER
We possibly could have parked anywhere for the night (Tassie is good at accommodating campers) but we opted for the BIG4 Discovery Holiday Park in Hobart. Just out of town, bonus of no city lights and therefore an excellent star show. Powered sites have their own, keyed ensuite bathrooms.
See http://ift.tt/1muz0Ig
EAST COAST
A description as the “Tassie Gold Coast” – which did make me laugh – refers to the warmer weather, not high-rise buildings. The roads are perfect for campers and caravans, with lots of overtaking lanes for the sports cars and motorbikes to get around you. The Tasman Highway looks and drives like it was designed by a car advertising executive. It’s stunning. If I wasn’t in an Apollo motorhome with the kids I’d be on a motorbike.
Time tip: 100km seems to take twice as long as on the mainland. Budget for the extra time you’ll spend in the “Oh, let’s stop here” towns. The first of those was Sorell, half an hour east of Hobart. It’s antique paradise and we lasted as long as the kids would let us. There are “pick your own” farms, with all manner of cherries and berries, too.
COLES BAY
The launching pad for Freycinet, Coles Bay is small. I’m not sure that the “Town Centre” sign pointing to the boat ramp was a joke. We camped at the BIG4 Iluka Holiday Park: excellent, quiet, clean, great barbecues and hard-running hot water. And, of course, moments away from Wineglass Bay.
Wineglass Bay Beach on Tasmania's East Coast. Picture: Kathryn LeahySource:SuppliedSupplied
FREYCINET NATIONAL PARK
Leave more than a day, because parting was such sweet sorrow. We did a quick check of the Cape Tourville Lighthouse to get our bearings, then on to Wineglass Bay. It’s a 45-minute walk to the lookout, and add that again for the walk to the beach. Yes, it looks like a wineglass, but the name came from when three whaling stations were in operation. Blood filled the shallows in the bay, making it look like a near empty glass of red wine. It’s another chapter in the hard history of Tassie. Often in the top 10 beaches in the world list.
Tip: Pack food if you’re going to the beach ... a picnic would have been perfect.
Free camp: Chain of Lagoons but collect some firewood on the way, because there’s not much lying around at this stunning beach spot. Bring bait, too. The nearest shops are a 45-minute round trip.
I thought Elephant Pass had to be one of the great motorcycle roads, but was forced to add much of the route between St Marys and Cradle Mountain. From Cleveland to Perth to Westbury, Deloraine and Mole Creek, this is as much a road trip as it is a festival for the senses.
A visit to Cradle Mountain is enough to convert a reluctant bushwalker. Tourism Tasmania/Chris CrerarSource:SuppliedSupplied
GO NORTH
Yes, you have to go to Cradle Mountain. No, you will not enjoy it, you will love it. We’re not bushwalkers. At least, we weren’t. We warmed up with late afternoon short walks with wombats – Enchanted Walk, King Billy Walk, Knybet Falls and Pencil Pine Falls. All easy, all gorgeous (it’s kind of like walking around in a Norsca commercial – fresh, you know?)
We stayed at Discovery Holiday Park right at the gate of Cradle Mountain Lake St Clair National Park and used our Freycinet National Park Pass to enter the park. We did the Marions Lookout via Crater Lake with bonus scary bit from Marions Lookout down the link track to the Dove Lake carpark. Beyond words, I think there were some actual punch-ons over time with the camera. This is ridiculously beautiful country.
Inspired by a party of 14 heading off on the Overland Track we said: “We have to do that one day.” We’ll see, of course, but we were drunk with Tassie love. On the road back south, I taught the kids the words to Let the Franklin Flow as a type of history lesson. “Just to feel your wilderness, your silence sings to me.”
Tasmania is fresh, it’s bold and seems to have more than its fair share of reasons to pull over. In Sheffield, they include Fudge ’n’ Good Coffee and the Tassie scallop pies at Bossimi’s.
While you’re there, see Mark at The Emporium; he’ll answer any music question that’s bugged you since the 1960s.
Westbury has an epic junkyard run by Mick who’ll sell you stuff you probably don’t want – an old wrought iron bed, a wagon wheel or a red telephone box – and he can make anything fit on the roof of a car – or van.
But really, truly, the very best bit is just travelling around together as a family. Walking, hiking, taking photos, wearing ski gear one day and singlets the next. Talking to strangers, swapping travel stories and marvelling at all the “sleeping wallabies” by the side of the road. We would definitely travel by campervan again, because sleeping where you stop and having that freedom to choose is incredibly liberating.
Tasmania, it’s my new favourite state. Just go for longer than you’ll think you want to, it still won’t be long enough.
0 nhận xét:
Đăng nhận xét